ays it seems many regions are digging up old texts to prove the title of inventor of “Champagne”-style sparkling wines. Alsace makes no such claims, but with a sparkler like this one (at a fraction of the price of many big-brand Champagnes), it doesn’t matter who did it first, only who does it better. This rich, gastronomic crémant with fine and elegant bubbles will have even the Champagne purist singing its praises.