This is the wine typically served to accompany antipasti as guests gather at Punta Crena, a winery overlooking the Mediterranean on the northern Italian coast. Small platters of marinated anchovies, salt-cured anchovies topped with butter (I kid you not), frittata of local herbs, oily focaccia, and cured olives from the family’s very own thousand-year-old Taggiasca trees make their way around the table—you shoulda been there—as this frizzante charmer from the indigenous Lumassina grape flows freely. Few things are quite as uplifting as this ethereal, floral, lemony quaffer.